Comments on: Chopping mortises – bevel-edged or mortise chisels (video)

By: Paul Sellers

Paul Sellers — Tue, 09 Apr 2013 19:42:00 +0000

Well said. Funny thing is, I ave a set of Faithful chisels i bought in to test and they have proven to be excellent chisels. I must say, though, that I like Sorby chisels very much. More expensive, yes, but for a longlife user I think they fit the bill.

By: Steve Branam

Steve Branam — Sat, 07 Jul 2012 13:11:00 +0000

This is a great demo. Regardless of the type of chisel used, it shows how effective this method is, just as Frank Klausz’ original demo-behind-glass did.

By: JosephSellers

JosephSellers — Fri, 06 Jul 2012 05:54:00 +0000

Why don’t you show us a proper comparison Steve? We would all be interested. Seriously, please let us know if/when you do one.

By: Steve Hamlin

Steve Hamlin — Fri, 06 Jul 2012 00:26:00 +0000

Sorry Paul, this comparison seemed a bit sophistic to me. There’s no doubt your method works, but: nn OBMC doesn’t need to be used with a little toffee hammer, and the strange attitude of the chisel in relation to the work does nothing to help speed, accuracy or work holding. Further, using the chisel backwards means the shaft edges won’t provide a clean cut on the sides – something you highlighted as a shortcoming of the mortise from the proper chisel. Try a dem comparing your bevel edged method against an OBMC used properly.

By: PhilM

PhilM — Thu, 05 Jul 2012 15:03:00 +0000

Hi Paul,

This is another great demo! Thanks for taking the time do this.

I have a question though. You say, take care to not bend the bevel-edged chisel. What exactly do you mean? Is it when you lever the chisel to break the chips? Other than hitting the chisel with mallet and have it bend on its own, is there another way for them to bend?

Thanks,

By: Howard in Wales

Howard in Wales — Thu, 05 Jul 2012 10:58:00 +0000

‘

A fascinating video on the basic subject of chopping a
mortice – thank you.

But isn’t it all a case of chisel geometry?

I must confess to using a bevel edged chisel (Stanley, with
black plastic handles – still got ‘em) for years because that and an old
workmate was all I had. I’m glad to say that I’m a bit better equipped in the
bench department nowadays.

Years later, and some years ago, I recollect seeing a video (VHS,
no less) by the late Jim Kingshott who advocated honing the backs and both
sides of a mortice chisel, to provide an edge capable of dealing with stray
fibres on the sides of the mortice as the bevel descended forcing the sides in
a backwards arc. This implied that it was parallel along its length, but
tapered slightly across the blade.

I did notice that as the mortice chisel took longer to chop,
it tended to become less free and bind as it got deeper in comparison with the
bevel edge chisel, which prompts me to think that side friction has a part to
play.

Again I recall buying a second hand mighty pig -ticker of a
chisel, about ¾”, for some big and deep door stiles in Oak. When honing it I noticed
that it tapered very slightly from tip to handle…….

Personally, I believe that deeper, longer mortices, especially
in harder woods, like Oak, demand less friction from the chisel as it descends.
Unless you are gluing to a high specification, a bit of chain-saw oil comes in
handy!

But all good stuff, I do like to see ideas and set-in-stone
practices challenged from time to time.