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	<title>Comments on: More on the marking gauge</title>
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	<link>http://paulsellers.com/2012/09/more-on-the-marking-gauge/</link>
	<description>Lifestyle woodworker</description>
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		<title>By: Svend Westergaard</title>
		<link>http://paulsellers.com/2012/09/more-on-the-marking-gauge/#comment-1213</link>
		<dc:creator>Svend Westergaard</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Sep 2012 08:33:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://paulsellers.com/?p=11057#comment-1213</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi Paul,
Greetings from Denmark. Here are some pictures of my marking gauges. This summer we went to Eksjö in Sweden (Sweden&#039;s best-preserved wooden town), where I found cross marking gauge in Qvarnarps building supply. At a few pounds I could not resist it Unfortunately the salesman could not tell me about the usage/best practice. 
The last one is a traditional Danish marking gauge. It has one pin in the first beam, and two pins in the second for mortise and tenon joinery. I used this all the time.
Furthermore I have a homemade panel gauge - based on pictures that I have seen on the net.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Paul,<br />
Greetings from Denmark. Here are some pictures of my marking gauges. This summer we went to Eksjö in Sweden (Sweden&#8217;s best-preserved wooden town), where I found cross marking gauge in Qvarnarps building supply. At a few pounds I could not resist it Unfortunately the salesman could not tell me about the usage/best practice.<br />
The last one is a traditional Danish marking gauge. It has one pin in the first beam, and two pins in the second for mortise and tenon joinery. I used this all the time.<br />
Furthermore I have a homemade panel gauge &#8211; based on pictures that I have seen on the net.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Paul Sellers</title>
		<link>http://paulsellers.com/2012/09/more-on-the-marking-gauge/#comment-1203</link>
		<dc:creator>Paul Sellers</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 08 Sep 2012 16:39:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://paulsellers.com/?p=11057#comment-1203</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I often use sliding bevels for angled tenons and I buy black .005 artists drawing pens for marking. This gives me the kind of fine line I like to work with both the actual tenon and the shoulder lines sometimes.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I often use sliding bevels for angled tenons and I buy black .005 artists drawing pens for marking. This gives me the kind of fine line I like to work with both the actual tenon and the shoulder lines sometimes.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: PhilM</title>
		<link>http://paulsellers.com/2012/09/more-on-the-marking-gauge/#comment-1202</link>
		<dc:creator>PhilM</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 08 Sep 2012 14:51:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://paulsellers.com/?p=11057#comment-1202</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi Paul,
Thanks for addressing an important skill once again. I got a lot out of this posting.

I do have a question. I am cutting a few angled tenons and using a rule and pencil to mark them. I suppose I can make a template for repeatability. However, I am wondering if you have a better way to do this using marking gauges.

Thanks,
PhilM]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Paul,<br />
Thanks for addressing an important skill once again. I got a lot out of this posting.</p>
<p>I do have a question. I am cutting a few angled tenons and using a rule and pencil to mark them. I suppose I can make a template for repeatability. However, I am wondering if you have a better way to do this using marking gauges.</p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
PhilM</p>
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