Making the wall clock – Part 7

With the main body of the clock completed, and if you want to add the undercarriage, we can now focus on forming the built up area beneath the bottom piece. This section adds greater depth and grace to the overall appearance of the clock and is purely decorative.

DSC_0710 I used a # 5 sweep gouge to shape the cove in a section of stock 1 1/4” wide. This is not a critical width. The thickness is a standard thickness and can be anywhere between 3/4” and 7/8” and the length about 16”. This length allows for the mitre cuts. With the wood clamped in the vise, lower than the top edge of the vise jaws, I run the gouge along the piece of wood with the gouge relying on one of the vise jaws to keep it parallel to one edge. DSC_0709I turned this piece around, end for end, in the vise because of awkward grain. I keep my gouge on an even angle and in a short stabbing motion, move back along the piece until I reach the other end.

DSC_0711I shaped a block of wood to the shape of the gouge by using the gouge to shape a profile guide. With the plane I plane the radius and then use coarse sandpaper to even out the ridges left by the plane. DSC_0713DSC_0715Now I can sand the exact profile of my cove. I could also use a piece of dowel or even a broom handle as a profile too.



To form the angles to the back of the cove is simply a question of using a combination square to guide the lines as shown. DSC_0717Cut down the lines with a hand saw to form the ninety degree angle at the back of the cove and from these main lines square the short edges to guide the hand plane.


With the back sawn and planed, plane the edges either side of the cove. The next stage is the undercarriage.