1. Norbert on 18 May 2014 at 8:55 pm

    I urge you to watch this short film. Gyalu is Hungarian for a plane.

  2. Gareth Martin on 19 May 2014 at 9:07 am

    I’ve stored and used BLO in my workshop for 5 years and I’ve never come across any warning on spontaneous combustion. Since watching Pauls video I’ve Googled the subject and I’m gobsmacked at the potential hazard. Thank Paul.

  3. Kerry Jordan on 19 May 2014 at 10:04 pm

    Thanks for this. Many of us love using these wooden bodied planes. Great to see how an expert tunes one. Most of us using them have learned by trial and too much error. Many of the wooden planes in my area have rust pitting on the back of the iron, creating nicks in the edge. Sharpening past one may just get into another. Anything to do for this?

  4. Jens on 20 May 2014 at 3:27 pm

    Kerry, my guess is, if the pitting is not too deep on the first 1/4 Inch, try to grind the back of the iron until it disappears.

  5. Frank P on 22 May 2014 at 3:45 am

    Kerry, most of the wooden planes I’ve brought back have had a good amount of pitting on the back of the iron. The easiest way I’ve found is just slightly lift the iron, so you only really flatten the first 1/4 inch of the back.

    I use my pinky to lift the iron from the non cutting side, while pressing down on the near the cutting edge.

  6. Keith Peters on 26 May 2014 at 3:35 pm

    Just before this video came out, I went out to pick up some old saws from Craigs List. The woman had a bunch of other old hand tools and I picked up a Union No. 26 Jack plane – a transitional plane with a wooden body and metal frog, for a mere $20. Took it home, cleaned it up, polished and honed the blade with the scary sharp method and … I couldn’t get it to do anything. I gave up and put it on the shelf. Figured I could at least sell it for more than $20 on eBay and make some profit anyway.

    Last night, I used this video to flatten the sole of the plane. And now that I have my diamond sharpening plates and strop, I redid the iron. My, my my… I was pulling amazing, long, thin shavings off a long cherry board, with ease. It was beautiful. I love the feel of this plane as it glides across the board. Once again, I have to thank you, Paul.

  7. Mick Alexander on 3 June 2014 at 11:18 am

    After I did my first Paul Sellers course, I became an avid user of old hand tools, and spent way too much time on eBay! You may recognise the pattern. I loved wooden planes, and made some partially successful attempts to restore some to working order. Still, though, I stuck with steel and Stanley. Then I watched the wooden jack plane video, and something clicked. One particular plane, a John Moseley coffin smoother, really started to work for me, in its renewed form, and now I prefer it to my Stanley No. 4. They sat side by side with each other for a few days on my bench, then bit by bit I found my hands going for the old wooden beauty more and more. Thank you Paul!

  8. Dennis on 13 June 2014 at 1:13 pm

    This will come in handy, I just bought a 100 year old wooden plane (it’s a whopping 75cm long, or 29 ½ inches) for only 9 euros (I am from Finland), I think it will satsify my jointing needs for some time to come.

  9. Martin King on 18 June 2014 at 5:56 pm

    Thanks for yet another really useful and timely video, Paul. I managed to pick up a similar plane to the one you restored at a car boot sale this past weekend. As I started to strip back the grime and rust, I was pleasantly surprised to find a W Marples & Sons Hibernia stamp on the iron and cap. Another good Sheffield maker and very worth the effort of restoring I think!

  10. gvrana on 18 August 2014 at 5:16 pm

    Hi Paul,
    Very informative, thanks. I noticed that you flattened the sole without the iron, cap iron, and wedge in place. I have read articles about flattening metal planes that say to put the iron, cap iron, and lever cap in place when flattening so that the sole will be under the same stress as when in use. I guess your video answers my question, but does the wood plane not flex enough with the iron wedged in place to make a difference when flattening it?

    • Paul Sellers on 18 August 2014 at 5:30 pm

      That’s right. Wooden planes are much more rigid and do not bend even under pressure. Cast metal ones do flex and therein is the main problem will all metal Bailey and Bed Rock pattern planes. The longer the plane the more they flex.

  11. Bill Draper on 14 November 2015 at 6:31 pm

    Paul, I got a 22 inch jack plane and rehabbed it as you did. Mine has a wooden button about 3/4 inch across on the fore end. What’s the purpose of that? My coffin plane has one also.

    • Paul Sellers on 14 November 2015 at 6:38 pm

      Just a strike button for retracting the plane iron. Hit the button with the hammer and the blade and wedge jerks up and out.

  12. Miran Munjas on 4 April 2016 at 9:07 pm

    Mr. Sellers, I want to thank you for giving me faith and courage to restore an old wooden hand plane my father gave me.

    • Paul Sellers on 4 April 2016 at 9:45 pm

      Welcome to the ranks of research and restoration.

  13. Frank Pino on 4 September 2017 at 2:02 am

    I purchased a Casey & Company wooden plane without the iron or cap. Where can I find one? I’m not sure what it takes.

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