Recut or Resize the Teeth On Any Hand and Back Saw

ByPaul Sellers

DSC_0068 In no time at all the latest video concerning saws and cutting new teeth to resize or restore your saws at home or in the workshop will be posted on my Paul Sellers YouTube channel. Of all the successes we’ve ad in training new and seasoned woodworkers how to sharpen their tools and including saws. it’s for sure the most revolutionary method ever and the neat thing about it is it’s free for anyone and everyone wherever you are in the world. DSC_0021 Any old saw, even ones with no teeth at all can be restored using the methods shown. No, it wont work on hard point saws. You probably shouldn’t have bought one of those in the first place as the makers only make them so you will go back to them for new ones.

Change a badly shaped crosscut like this one to a ripcut that crosscuts with equal ability.

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It may be daunting to think of doing this to your saw, but believe me the end result will be saw that cuts with the very best and what is important is you will feel empowered.

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Just want to get you ready. You might have really messed up before and ruined a saw. This video even answers that level of a problem. If you have a friend too that you know wants to master saws and saw sharpening then sign em up and subscribe to YouTube for this and 60 other videos and pass the word on. We want woodworkers to succeed by gaining from the past and uniting what they learn with the best of today’s hand tool woodworking in our ever advancing campaign for everyone to master real woodworking. DSC_0059

In a matter of minutes you will have this. You are one step away from a perfect saw.

I know, this is an unusual blog for me, but I so want people to get this. It’s my gift to future woodworkers. Just a few hours to wait.

2 Comments

  1. Nice, well-explained video. Excellent.

    Minor omission, and a question or suggestion or two.

    The warning about “modern impact hardened teeth” was missing in the actual video? (Or, I missed it?) Otherwise that filing step just might not go like that. 😉 A work around could be to use a hacksaw to -cut- the teeth off (cutting below the hardened part). A steel rule as a guide, well clamped, etc. Is the steel behind the original teeth any good if one does this?

    Secondly, another common trick for scaling that could be used for the tooth pattern is just to clamp the steel rule at an angle on the board. Using every-other-milimeter on the angled-rule can then end up with something tighter than 12-per-inch when dragged down to the saw plate along the square. This allows for -any- desired TPI, without requiring one to stick with multiples of makings on the rule, or finding a hacksaw with the right TPI.

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