Do Moulding Planes Mould End Grain?
Question:
Paul,
It’s interesting to see how you use moulding planes for moulding things like tabletops and so on and I really enjoyed watching how you moulded the picture frames, but they don’t seem suited to working on end grain. Is there a strategy like special skewed irons or what else can you do to deal with end grain using moulding planes? Scratch stocks, skewed irons and what about say one of the combination planes like the #45 for moulding too?
Thanks,
Paul
Answer:
It’s funny how many people think moulding planes don’t work too well on end grain and no one really knows where this came from. For two centuries most moulds we see on end grain came from moulding planes and not scratch stocks. In some cases it’s true that there are sometimes issues with moulding end grain, but the cases are more remote than general and mostly related to softwoods and soft-grained woods. It’s not usually a problem in hardwoods but in softwoods the compression between hard and soft aspects of the growth rings side by side on the endgrain can be a problem. Soft-grained woods are hard to mould on end grain but easy enough along the grain. I think people pick upon that and think I’m cheating when using pine to make the moulding look easy. There are facts that make functionality practical and effective so this is what you should know.
1: All of the softwoods in the softwood genre are more problematic but far from impossible to shape. Sharpen up often and shoot for top levels of sharpness with no half measure. If possible use a light knifewall or even staggered knifewalls between the corner and the extreme width of the cut. These serve as stop cuts, which prevents undercutting the main body of wood as the fibres are severed before the iron.
2: Skewed irons do indeed assist in the endgrain profiling of wood and especially so on softwoods as they slice- or pare-cut at a skewed angle. Many softwoods have little difference between the hard and softness of the growth rings, Eastern white pine, for instance, but when the pines are soft they grain compresses and often tears under pressure of the forward thrust.
3: Most hardwoods, mahogany, oak, walnut, cherry, maple and so on, will mould well using moulding planes as long as the irons are sharp and kept sharp by frequent honing throughout.
Unsanded mould from the plane
4: Moulding planes self sharpen. By that I mean it’s incorrect to lift off the plane on the returning back stroke as some people do and say. The plane stays in contact with the mould the whole time. This saves multiple realignments at the start of the cuts when you land the plane each time. The second benefit that’s generally overlooked is that the moulded stock hones the bevel on the returning back stroke and this keeps the edge sharper for longer, which I find is the same with all planes by the way.
5: Scratch stocks will work generally but mostly we use scratch stocks for curved work such as oval mirror and picture frames, carriage doors and such.
6: Moulds start with almost no material being removed and gradually, with each successive stroke, the surface cut increases until the final level is achieved with a full width cut that followed the whole profile. So, the cut starts easy and finishes hard.
7:The famed and abandoned multi combination planes were a poor substitute for moulding planes dedicate d to task and shape. The idea was that the combination plane had most of the cutters you might need for moulding, rabbeting and grooving wood. The latter two worked well but the moulding cutters were generally a dead loss. What Stanley Rule & Level never could compensate for was the loss of matching sole that followed the profile of the iron as the cut progressed. That being so, the material had no compression before the iron on the forepart of the lane over the width of the mould by a sole and so the grain would lift in the cut and tear. Now I am not saying these planes didn’t work some of the time, but they were unreliable on the commercial side. They are fiddly and awkward to set up and time is money on the shop floor so that’s why we have so many of them in good condition!
Obviously you cannot plane through-cuts without back up on endgrain profiling in much the same way you can’t always have free cuts on moulding machines such as spindle shapers and routers. I usually clamp a continuing section of wood to carry the plane through and prevent the speltching (blowout US) as shown.
With sanding and a coat of finish the profile is perfect.
Oh, just in case. It is harder to mould end grain, physically I mean. It’s more of a workout and takes more effort than going along the grain.
Paul, what about planing against the grain? That must happen often because the mould isn’t symmetrical. Is it just a case of having a super sharp blade?
As soon as you encounter alternate or contrary grain you tap the heel to retract the cutting iron and take shallower cuts. This usually takes care of it. It’s not too common a problem and then there are paired planes too so that you can take cuts in the opposite direction. Sharpness and a tight throat give good results.
That was an excellent explanation Paul, much appreciated, I would be interested in the correct method to sharpen the irons of these planes.
We will be pulling a new video together on sharpening moulding planes soon.
I would have thought this to be impossible. I can’t get that good of a cut with a smoothing plane. I think Paul is a Martian.
Hey Paul,
Beautiful work as always. In the finish photo it looks like there is a very slight bevel on the top edge along the end grain. It looks like you may have taken a couple of light swipes with an angled #4 to remove the chipped out corner (from previous pic). Just curious if that is in fact what you did. Thanks. #woodworkingforensics
-e
No, Eric. The cut from the plane is perfectly sharp and as you see it. There is no tear-out or edge/corner fracture. The board was crosscut by hand and some fracture was there before the moulding plane was used and I took a couple of swipes to give me a clear start not finish.
What about curved mouldings (as mentioned above oval picture frames), is scratch stock the only tool for that or are there additional tricks how to do such things? I have always wondered how they did it in old times, before routers, all this 18 century furniture that is full of curved mouldings.
We just did a series on mouldings via moulding planes and alternative methods on woodworkingmasterclasses.com but this is for members. When a mould was commonly used on curves it was equally common for planes to have soles shaped close to the curve, be that concave or convex. These are highly collectable and rarely seen on sale.
I have seen a few and they range from $600 and up.
Can you please correct me if I am wrong, I sharpen my moulding blades by way of creating a profile or mould on off cuts and glue wet ‘n’ dry sand paper to it. This is how I ensure the profile of the blade doesn’t change and it does a reasonable job.
You mentioned when dragging the plane any plane back along the timber it hones the edge therefore prolonging the sharpness, I’ve always thought this to be the case but why do they claim and Frank Klaus also mentions never to do it as it blunts the edge. On what do they base their theory on?
Salko
Not saying anything against Frank K or anyone else, but telling what I know was practised at the bench throughout history. Many films show an atmospheric slow mo in a misty moisty shop and its another myth and not reality.
Thank you and well said you truly are a knowledgeable man.
Sandpaper works for a once a year top up but not repeated sharpening as you will generally increase the profile size to a point it will no longer match the plane sole. Its better to file to profile and then hone for sharpness each facet of the profile.
Sticking the moulding through with a sacrificial piece to hold the cross grain from fracturing was enlightening to me, Paul. Must try that.
Thanks very much
Gary
Thank you for all your wonderful posts I am enjoying learning from you. I have been converted to working with hand tools and I am slowly learning how to do this. I am not sure whether I understood you correctly but I got the understanding that you don’t think combination planes are that good, is that correct? I am currently living and working in Ethiopia and have been looking at secondhand combination planes on eBay because I want to make some furniture with shaker style doors and sides with panels inset and partly as power is a problem here and also because I have been converted to using hand tools I was wanting a combination plane to cut the groves for the panels and thought that they are quite versatile so can do multiple things with them. Carrying things out here in baggage is also a problem in terms of space and weight so these seemed a good compromise. I would be interested to hear your thoughts on this.
Many thanks
Keith
OK, They are fine for grooving and some rabetting (rebating UK) if you are imaginative. Moulding works much of the time but the design is flawed because there is no sole matching the mould so the grain often, and `i mean often, raises ahead of the cutter and rips. So for moulding they can and do have probs. I would definitely find/buy one for some work rather than not have one and they are just fine for grooves.
Thank you, this makes sense. Would there be something more appropriate even for grooving that I should look to purchasing?
HI PAUL,
I SEE SOME MOULDING PLANES (ALSO REBATES AND GROOVING PLANES) WITH A 45° BEDDED IRON, AND OTHER AT 50°. FOR ECONOMY AND BECAUSE I LIKE A MINIMAISTR APPROACH, DO YOU THINK IS BETTER TO PREFER THE 45°? IT SEEMS OF MINOR IMPACT, BUT I WORK A LOT IN SOFTWOODS AND FIND THE ADDED 5° OF THE IRON BEDDING ANGLE A DISADVANTAGE, BECAUSE OF THE LESS CLEAN CUT AND THE MUCH MORE RESISTANCE THAT GIVE THE WOOD. OR IS ONLY MY IMPRESSION?
THANKS.
The steeper angle works better on harder, more dense grained woods and of course most moulded furniture was indeed made from hard not soft woods. Vernacular furniture for working people was less less decorated and therefore less moulded than for what would be referred to as the gentry. That made a difference in quantities of the two categories so there are apparently less low angled versions than high.