Correcting a New Saw
We posted this video yesterday just to help you see that it is simple to correct flawed output on new saws if the saw is resharpenablle which most push stroke back saws mad in the `uk are and most pulls stroke, Japanese-type saws are not. It takes me about 3-4 minutes to sharpen almost and saw.
On this saw it came from the Thomas Flinn stable at the lower price end but the materials are the same quality as their higher end saws just nit sharpened properly or as well. Anyway, it is good to get started somewhere as even the high end saws need sharpening in a few weeks so why put it off?
Hope you enjoy then please subscribe to my YT channel because we have a long way to go to get people more involved in real woodworking and also to find their roots back into it.
Q.E.D. Loved the perfectly cut dovetails at the end, finished in a couple of seconds 🙂
Wonderfull illustration of the efficiency of a well groomed (sharpened) saw.
A question : It seems that the sharpening happens from one side only, and that all the teeth are equal in angle. Did I misunderstand?
Or does something change in the changing process over a certain TPI?
Thank you for the fountain of teaching that I am eagerly drinking from
Best regards
Lars
Hi Lars,
If I’m not mistaken, Paul is sharpening a saw that is configured in a rip configuration as opposed to a crosscut configuration. When filing for rip, you file directly across the tooth. Paul states in the video that you have to feel for the angle that already exists, so yes, all the teeth are equal in angle. Also, many woodworkers prefer a rip configuration when cutting dovetails.
Hope this helps.
John
Thank you John, it helped me understand
It´s a pleasure to see you showing and explaining the subjects.
Thank you, Mr Paul Sellers.
The information you provide has been invaluable.
Thank you so very much Paul!
Ray
It is also worth noting that Paul knows when to keep his mouth shut and let the action speak for itself. Many video hosts out there can be cut in half (both in length and audio) and still nothing would have been lost in their value.
That model of saw was the first back saw I bought. I seldom used it because it cut so slow. I now know the remedy.
Thank you Paul
Thank you for posting the video. I sharpened three of my saws using this technique, and it worked well on all of them. I had previously sharpened these saws, but they all needed tweaking.
Good files are very important. I use only Bahco for my saw sharpening. I only know this from Paul’s blogs about files. I don’t always hone with a paddle however. I only use the paddles for my back saws that cut dadoes, dovetails, and tenons.
Hello,
Any recommendation on which saw files are decently made?
Search Paul’s blog, the bahco has been posted on before. When buying a saw file try to make sure it’s size is over double the height of your teeth so you can use all facets of the file. On this saw that’s pretty much all of them but on bigger saws it’s a consideration.
Thank you. Apparent the search ‘saw file’ does not find it, but ‘saw files’ does.
Bahco, Tome Fetiera and Kennedy.
Thank you,
Paul,
Thanks for this, I did it on my £13 gents saw today and it improved it no end. I then cut my first dovetail that fit nicely together, amazing the difference sharp tools make. I’m learning loads from you on Masterclasses and Youtube, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
John
After watching this, I tackled my new S&J tenon saw that wouldn’t cut worth a damn.
What a result!!
I now have a brilliant saw that was cheap + the cost (£6) of a Bahco file.
Thanks Paul!
And Bahco saw file could sharpen as many as 30 saws filings!