It happens from time to time. A blade seems suddenly to dull and then the drift. You should have ordered more in but you procrastinated and when you need a reasonably sharp blade you’re out. Bandsaw blades have hardened teeth and cannot be sharpened with a file like a conventional saw any more.  That’s the price you pay for any hard-point at the business tips of all saw blades. Of course turnaround is very quick here in the UK. Standard sized blades come off the peg so to speak and you can order on one afternoon and receive it in the morning. But if it happens on a Friday afternoon you can be without until mid week after the build up of orders over the weekend. What to do?

This happens as I said. As a quick fix you can use a diamond paddle to put a micro bevel on the back of each of the teeth. Going quite lightly, this should take the tooth down to fresh steel sufficient to give a half decent cut again. It can take a while if you have long blades and I might not do this if I hit a hardened nail or screw. Mine blades are around 13 feet long and it took me about ten minutes, but I was back cutting again and so for the cost of a paddle and ten minutes I had only minimal downtime.

I used an EZE-Lap diamond paddle they call a hone and stone. The medium one. By the time my blade was done `i would say that the paddle had used about 25% of its life because the hard point teeth are so localised to the teeth tips they wear very quickly. But the paddles cost about £5 so I still have a paddle fully operational for general honing or to do more on bandsaw blades.

To clamp the blade securely I simply use my regular saw clamp, the one I clamp in the vise, and elevate one end of the bandsaw blade at the exit end and the other lower in the saw kerf. That way I can slacken the vise slightly, retain enough pressure for light friction, and slide the saw blade along as I finish each section.


  1. Pete Littlejohn on 20 June 2018 at 12:54 pm

    There are many video’s on U tube about re-sharpening bandsaw blades. Most of then use various types of jigs to move the blade along while a dremel disc sharpens the tips. I have also seen a video showing the difference cleaning the burr of a brand new blade can make to ease and speed up cutting timber on the bandsaw. As always Paul you come up with a quick and easy way to do the same job. I enjoy seeing the progress of you setting up in your new workshop. Keep up the informative posts.

  2. Eddy flynn on 20 June 2018 at 4:02 pm

    A very timely blog post thanks

  3. Tom Stenzel on 20 June 2018 at 4:33 pm

    I have to confess- I use a Dremel for this. But I have plenty of other uses for it and had one already. If I didn’t have the dremel the diamond paddles would sure look like a go. Plus it’s quieter and you could listen to music while sharpening. With a dremel that’s a bit rough.

    -Tom Stenzel

    • John Venables on 21 June 2018 at 10:08 am

      I used a dremel with a sanding disk to to lightly sharpen a hard point saw I was using to cut some composite floating floorboards. I only had a few cuts to do to finish the floor so I though I would try to sharpen the teeth. I worked ok and allowed me to finish with buying a new saw. That flooring is really hard on tools.

  • Roberto Fischer on Listening Up! It’s Important!I'd love to hear more about the sounds of a wooden plane when setting the wedge. What's the best for sound and tactile feedback when adjusting the plane: wooden mallet, metal hamme…
  • Jeff D on Listening Up! It’s Important!I'm excited for taste the 3-in-1!
  • Joe on Listening Up! It’s Important!Thanks Paul. This should be an interesting topic. I recall you talking about the sense of feel, sound, and smell when I first started watching your woodworking videos. At first I c…
  • Paul Sellers on Not Good, Not Good!Then I will discontinue our dialogue as we agree to disagree.
  • YrHenSaer on Not Good, Not Good!@Paul Sellers I have no interest in either the book in question or Japanese techniques. I said, plainly, that the tone of the review, a criticism such as the one you wrote of one a…
  • KEVIN NAIRN on Not Good, Not Good!I work as a carpenter and have lots of books on carpentry and joinery. In one of my older books, there's a mistake on a cut roof (a cut roof is a roof where the rafters and other p…
  • Paul Sellers on Not Good, Not Good!I am not altogether sure what you are saying. Tell me this, had I decided to contact the publisher, would he then have stopped selling the book he had little to do with except copy…