I cut the drawer bottom to size and planed the bevel to the underside until it fit neatly into the 3/8″ grooves to the sides and front of the drawer.
Notice the rubberized (or silicone) non-slip shelf liner. This is a must buy for any shop. Grip stuff in the vise for an absolutely non slip grip, or cushion your work on the bench top with a couple of clamps and this beats bench dogs for 90% of bench top work hands down.
I planed the underside bevels by hand. This is an easy task with a sharp Stanley #5 1/2 and is also very precise.
I also planed out any discrepancies to the surfaces of the panel ready for finishing. I have not glued any of the main project or drawer together as yet. I must scrape and sand where necessary, but on all of my projects I try to leave the parts unglued until the whole is completely jointed, so that if need be a can still change out a part if I feel it doesn’t belong.
I make certain that the ends of the drawer bottom are square to the front edge before installation.
With the drawer bottom fitted I create a countersunk and slotted screw channel at the back of the drawer to secure the drawer bottom to the drawer back.
This slot allows for adjustment should shrinkage take place later; loosening the screws allows me to move the drawer bottom forward into the groove and to tighten the screws again. I always ensure my furniture wood is dried to 7-10% and my shop is humidity controlled. This minimizes the risk but I like it there as a safety feature
This is how the drawer back looks after completion. All that’s left on the drawer is sanding, glue-up and then the final fitting before the application of finish.
The completed drawer.
3 Comments
It’s a fairly common practice here in the UK. We do it to cantilever the drawer so we can see all the way to the back.
Hi Paul,
there’s a specific issue that determines that drawer’s bottoms aren’t inserted in groove on the rear, like a panel, or is simply an easier method of construction?
It means that the drawer bottom can be slid into place and even adjusted if the bottom shrinks from the front groove. It also means that the long haunches at the rear of the drawer can help cantilever the drawer so the drawer can be opened all the way without dropping out of the recess.
Comments are closed.
Privacy Notice
You must enter certain information to submit the form on this page. We take the handling of personal information seriously and appreciate your trust in us. Our Privacy Policy sets out important information about us and how we use and protect your personal data and it also explains your legal rights in respect of it. Please click here to read it before you provide any information on this form.
It’s a fairly common practice here in the UK. We do it to cantilever the drawer so we can see all the way to the back.
Hi Paul,
there’s a specific issue that determines that drawer’s bottoms aren’t inserted in groove on the rear, like a panel, or is simply an easier method of construction?
It means that the drawer bottom can be slid into place and even adjusted if the bottom shrinks from the front groove. It also means that the long haunches at the rear of the drawer can help cantilever the drawer so the drawer can be opened all the way without dropping out of the recess.