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Not so poor man’s router – really works!

A more refined ‘not-so-poor man’s router.

 

This is my suggestion for a simple but more advanced not-so-poor man’s router that comes from a small scrap-sized piece of harder wood, oak, (could be softer wood like pine or poplar too) 5-6″ long and using only a 1/4″ diameter Allen wrench (hex key US) and a slot-headed, threaded bolt.

 

 

 

 

I first drilled two holes in my blank; the first one, a 1/4″ diameter hole centred in the length and 3/4″ from one of the long edges. The hole goes all the way through to the other side.  The ¼” diameter hole for the wrench should be fairly snug with little slop room.

 

 

 

 

 

The second hole, 5/8” diameter, overlaps the opposite edge and is centred 1 3/8” from the same long edge as the ¼” hole. This 5/8” hole is more a sight hole and leads to a second 5/8” hole yet to be drilled to form an escapement for shavings and easy clearance. Stop the drill ½” from the bottom edge.

 

 

The second, horizontal hole allows me to see the router cutter and its cut in the housing recess.

 

 

As you can see, I ground off the bottom half of the hex key and at a slight angle upwards towards the heel of the wrench. I used a grinding wheel (bench grinder US). This allows free passage in like manner to thoroughbred engineered models. I then ground the top bevel at around 30-degrees to establish the cutting edge.

 

 

 

 

In this case I used a regular threaded bolt with a thread diameter slightly bigger in diameter than 3/16” to allow securement of the cutting iron at any desired depth and provide future adjustability. I drilled a 3/16” hole through the back of my blank and into the vertical ¼” hole. This allowed me to use the bolt to tap the wall of the hole.

I drilled the second 5/8” diameter overhanging the bottom edge of the blank into the previously drilled 5/8” hole, centres in the ½’ remaining material beneath the vertical hole.

Scallops either side of the cutting iron on the back edge makes the use of the plane more comfortable.

16 comments

  1. Mrnanowire says:

     A suggestion for an improvement would be to ad an extra locking mechanism as shown in the attached picture. It is a simple addition and it does really improve the performance by making sure that the adjusted depth doesn’t change.  

    • Simple enough in my case. of course allen wrenches made by different companies will not have consistent steel alloys and so treatment may need different methods for hardening. I simply shaped on a grinding wheel and then heated and plunged in cold water. Fast and effective. I didn’t do any annealing and found the steel took an edge fine on diamond plates as usual.

  2. Ben Dick says:

    Hi Paul I have just made one of these this afternoon to cut out some half laps to repair a garage door frame I made it the same as yours but with one end about 9″ to overlap onto the joint. The thing is brilliant such a time saver and so accurate thank’s very much. definately well worth the time to make it.

  3. BrianJ says:

    Mr Sellers I am very apreciative of your method of teaching and your ‘on screen’ persona. You have created a chicken and the egg problem for me however. Picking the ‘not so poor mans route” and the ‘shooting board’ projects to start with this weekend, I have to decide between making the router first to trim the dadoes on the shooting board? or the shooting board to trim the end grain of the router base?? I’m kidding of course ( I know they ends of the base of the router base don’t need to be sqaure) but I am on my way to our local Lee Valley tool shop to add to my collection of chisels – which I will be using your method of sharpening to bring up to snuff. Kind regards, Brian, Edmonton AB
    and thank you again for sharing what you do

  4. Keith says:

    Made one today. Slightly bigger, 8in wide and used 8mm allen key. Added a tapped brass plate screwed to the back to help hold the locking screw. Not used in anger, but worked great on a test piece. All it cost was time.

  5. Keith says:

    Having been pleased with my homemade router i am now thinking of making a smaller version using brass for the body. i don’t tend to draw ideas, but do work things through in my head by makingthem virtually.

    Idea so far is a 3mm thick brass plate as the base. Attachedto this a 20mm square brass bar, using counter sunk machine screws. The brass bar will be drilled to take the allen key cutter and a machine screw in a tapped hole at right angles will hold it in place. For a small one I will, I think, simply notch the base plate so the cutter is visible.

    If this is a success I think i will make a larger one with a more elaborate base. I have all of the materials, so the only cost will be time.

  6. Hector MacNeil says:

    I made a hand router and gave to my son as a Christmas gift. It came out pretty well and I was really proud to give him a tool that I had made myself. Thank you!

  7. Mark says:

    Many thanks for the inspiration Paul. Always enjoyed working with wood but until now I have never really had time for any serious projects. Going to have a go at the hand router /granny’s tooth. The many thanks. The videos are great too

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