Home » Paul Sellers’ Blog » Buying good tools cheap #2 – The combination square

Buying good tools cheap #2 – The combination square

The engineer’s combination square

Today I begin with talking about my square. I have more than one for practical reasons, but the one I reach for the most is a standard engineer’s combination square. As the name implies, this tools was designed for the highe demands of the engineer.You will likely add more types and sizes as you grow your collection so patiently wait for them and buy at the right price.

My old Rabone combination square

I have owned a Rabone since I was around 15 years old. Almost fifty years. It was indeed the first square that I ever bought or owned. I also own a large roofing square for the occasional need on say sheet goods like plywood and laying out projects on story boards.



I buy the traditional squares, the ones with wood and metal (brass) stocks and wide, flat plates too, if I see them and also good ones like this Rabone square made in the 1940-50s, because they are useful too. 





Convenient to hold

The main advantage of the combination square for woodworkers over many others is that it’s a one size fits all hands which gives the convenience of holding the square against the workpiece without overextending the hand. The holes in the stock casting allow for excellent grip, an essential ingredient for small-handed people and convenient for all.

Accurate squares

It stands to reason that the square must be exactly what its name says, dead square. There can be no compromise on the accuracy of a square and so you must pursue this ruthlessly if you want fine and accurate work. Any compromise here will telegraph throughout your work and make it impossible for you to produce the impeccable standards you must strive for in joinery and so on. You can read more on this in an earlier blogpost  and if you are looking to restore one you have or find here is another blog.

Cheap square may not be so cheap

In my experience, low cost alluminium squares are surprisingly accurate when you first buy them. In a matter of a few days of constant use at the bench however, they can and do go out of square. At first this is not so evident and you find yourself working without realising the shoulder lines of joints are not lining up all the way around. The problem worsens and then  you discover several areas where your work has been compromised with inaccuracies. Alluminium squares are also quite lightweight, too light in weight actually. Here I like the extra weight of cast iron for the stock. Cast iron wears well and adds the extra weight and heft I like. It feels balanced in the hand too.

Our everyday squares

We have used new squares at the school in the UK for three years. We use a Stanley Rabone square that has a cast iron stock and hardened steel beam. Their reference number is: Stanley Rabone Combination Square 12″ – 300mm Professional Cast Iron 0-46-151. This one I bought brand new online on eBay for £12.99 plus £1.50 shipping. There are many other suppliers selling for under the £20 mark but many selling at regular retail, which is still good value for money at £28.

In our USA New Legacy New York school we went with the Sears Craftsman 12” square. Sears offers a no-nonsense lifetime warranty on all of their hand tools regardless of how damage occurs and have done so for decades. It makes sense to use their squares, which though aluminum stocks, are heavier stock than average and so have extra weight. These are fairly new to the school, but we have needed to return only one and that was a manufacturing failure and not through deterioration or use.

Problems buying secondhand on eBay

Issues are wear mostly. The beam can be worn on the corners and this isn’t good because we  use the knife and pencil so much along the beam and this can compromise our crisp clean edges.

The best squares

I think Starrett combination squares are the very best made. For the quality and engineering standards they tick every box. Price wise they represent good value for money, but they are more expensive at three to five times the price of all others.

In closing

This combination square expands the functionality of the tool from the simple square of conventional try squares to include forty-five degree capabiity for marking and cutting as well as test checks for both square and angle. This then at least doubles the value and purpose of the tool. The sliding beam (blade or plate) makes the tool versatile too in that you can slide the beam to suit specific applications.

My now old Rabone square mentioned above did cost me a week’s wages. A hefty price back then. But having used the craftsman’s I worked under for several months the time came when I saw the need to buy my own and I then saw the absolute need for accuracy. Back then there were cheap alternatives but they were so bad no one would buy them so that made my choice a simple thing. My general advise on this particular tool is that you buy the best you can. The less expensive ones may not last as long but they must not only last, they must retain


  1. Miles Thompson says:

    I never really trusted combination squares and mine’s nothing special, probably bought it at Canadian Tire about 40 years ago. Yet it has held its “squareness”, better than a couple of try squares – so it’s the one I reach for.

    Would love to have a Starrett – just for the feel of the superb machining and finish.

    – Miles

  2. Brad says:

    I wholeheartedly agree. A good square is vital to success. If you’ve got the money, I would suggest plopping down the US$80 or so for a new Starrett combo square.

    If you don’t, then I’ve had success at garage sales–picked up a vintage starrett rule and protractor for $2.00 and at a flea market–picked up a vintage Union Tool company combination square for US$9.50–and I REALLY use this one a lot. I also purchased a steel 4″ machinists square from Lee Valley, which I also use a lot.

    I’ve bought the vintage wooden/brass squares because they’re beautiful, but had to rehab them to true the edges. Not a good record, and unless you’re prepared to do this (it’s not hard) I wouldn’t bother.

    Paul is also correct about buying used sight unseen. You’re better off rolling the dice at your local casino. I just won’t do it.

  3. jmpurser says:

    I just got my WWII era Starrett combination square from Ebay. That’s not just a tool, it’s a piece of ART. It’s almost intimidating to take it out to my work area as it seems to be setting a pretty high bar for my work to meet.

    Thanks for the recommendation.

  4. Jon Place says:

    I just took delivery of one of the ‘Stanley Rabone Combination Square 12″ – 300mm Professional Cast Iron 0-46-151’ mentioned in this blog. I managed to get hold of it for £16 including delivery so was pretty pleased with the deal I got (just used Amazon). I’ve been pleasantly surprised at just how good this tool is. It has a nice weight to it and the markings on the rule are really easy to read (I’m nearly 48 and now have to wear varifocal specs so this was really important to me). Best of all though it came out of the box 100% dead square – I’ve never had that from a combo square before. It’s a joy to use. I’m really glad I got one.

  5. Dominik G-S says:

    I just bought a starrett combination square and I want to keep it safe apart from using it at work. How do you keep your square safe? Perhaps is there a nice little box or something like that? I often read that a drop on the floor isn’t good for the accuracy.

  6. Tim says:

    I’d love to see a few more of your thoughts here Paul. Looking at the Starrett assortment of squares presents significantly more options than I expected to see. What length do you suggest for the bar? What about the options for the center head and the protractor? Are they at all worth having? And what about the graduations?

  7. DJ King says:

    Tim, I can’t speak for Paul, but am willing to offer my experience. First buy a 12″ square. If you take care to plane your stock square on 4 sides, the “12 can be pressed into service on any stock 0″- 21″ wide by marking from both edges. Just be sure your edges are parrallel. It can also be used on edges that are less than 3/4″ if you’re careful. 12″ is the best all-around size for most work. For what I would expect is a rare case when you will have something larger than 21″ in width, this can be initially marked with a 12″ square and a longer straight edge can be used to continue the line. Depending on whether you do large furniture routinely, a 12″ is all you really NEED. Having said that, I find my 4″ double square and 6″ combo square great for marking edges and miters on small workpieces, but to be sure, this is pure convenience. Someone on a budget is much better served buying 1 high-quality 12″ square than various sizes of lesser quality. It’s often said that the square is THE most important tool for a woodworker and I emphatically agree. Even a great craftsman can have work ruined by a poor square. I echo that Starrett is the absolute best if you can find one that fits your budget. Even a full priced Starrett is well worth the money IMHO. Another source I have used often is the $24 12” squares from Harry Epstein. He sells squares that have minor blemishes, but which are otherwise very well made from thick steel and cast iron heads ala Starrett. They have deeply-etched markings rather than printed markings. He has metric, 4R (which have imperial markings in 64ths, 32nds, 16ths, and 8ths), and 16R (which have a combination of the above and 10ths and 100ths). Depending on whether you use metric or imperial, I recommend either the metric or 4R unless you already work in 100ths. In my experience, 100ths are not typically used by woodworkers except for some engineers. On his site, you can search for “combination squares” and find them. Just be careful to get the 12″ one that is about $24 and that has the right measurement scales for your methods. The others below this price point look too cheap to be a smart investment. I have 4 of these squares 4″ double, 6″ combination, 12″ combination, and 18″ combination” and they have remained accurate for years alongside my Starrett’s. Having this many is a true luxury and I use them when teaching. Also, I would choose a Starrett if my budget allowed, but I didn’t have another $400 to spend on extra squares. I hope this helps.

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