To form the roundovers

With all of the joinery completed, I now focus on design concepts I want to soften the hard corners with a bullnose edge to the top and bottom pieces of the clock. I also want to introduce a method that slims down the appearance of the sides and rails because  think that they are too heavy looking and clunkish: By using the #4 Stanley plane, I can make a perfect roundover in a matter of minutes, far faster than using the router and much less clean up and safety concerns. By screwing a 1 1/4” #10 screw into a piece of pine, I can create a ‘poor-man’s’ beading tool.

To form the first roundover I plane the end grain areas first. I run the plane at about 45-degrees along the corner until I have a flat about 1/4-3/8″ wide. 

I then drop my angle to half that and take a couple of full-length swipes. Then, with each successive swipe rising from bottom to top I take a series of swipes, altering the angle with each stroke, until I reach the topmost surface.




I repeat on the opposite side to create a full roundover as shown.


I repeat this to the opposite end.


Now I connect the two ends by doing the same along the length.






Using sandpaer to refine the plane work, I sand until all flats become round using first the coarse 150-grit and then the 240-grit.







To form the beads

I set the depth of the screw to 3/16” from the block I call the stock.



I run the stock of the beading tool against the outside flat face of the side pieces to form the bead line. You could also run it along the inside face or indeed both of the front corners on each side to thin the appearance even more. This is up to you.




I also run the bead along the top and bottom crossrails, to correspond with the bead on the sides. I like the traditional look of this. By starting at one end, I pull the beading tool toward me in short repeated strokes, working along from one end to the other. It takes less than two minutes to complete with the screw. I press until the shank of the screw rides the wood and this also serves as the depth stop, so that I don’t go unevenly.

Once I am down, I take the tenon saw and run that along the groove from one end to the other. this gives a neat and square look to the inside of the bead.





By folding coarse sandpaper, #150-grit I can reach into the inside corner of the bead and use the sandpaper to further round the bead. I follow this with finer #240-grit paper to finish.

With the #4 Stanley smoothing plane, I remove the outside corner in a few quick passes and follow a round to complete the shaping of the bead.





Sandpaper completes the finishing. With the bead formed, I use the tenon saw to clean out the inside corner of the bead, which is simply a couple of passes. I repeat all of the is the opposite side and then do the same to the top and bottom crossrails.


You can see the poor man’s beading tool cum marking gauge here. This one shows how that gauge can be used as a marking gauge for setting hinges. Here is another on refining the beading tool screw to form a deeper, more effective cutter.

  • Francis Anderson on 10 Projects to Make'It’s just a shame that all the things you make are so old fashioned and out of date looking.' ... Quite apart from the tautology - 'out of date' and 'old fashioned' - you've gotta…
  • Kevin on Edge Sharpening Under £10I have been using a set of the Chinese plates for a couple of years now - I mount mine individually on paddles kind of like a strop, but that's just my preference. A couple of thin…
  • Martyn Legg on The Importance of CraftHasan, maybe you could teach just one young person to love wood and all its wonders, do you have one person that shows interest? Invite them in to see one project, enthusiasm creat…
  • mark snyder on 10 Projects to MakeSimon , Personally I find your comments not only ignorant but tactless and insulting. Where might we find your contributions or are you only limited to negative critique ? Have you…
  • Tom Stenzel on 10 Projects to MakeWhen I thought I would have time it still fills up. My daughter works at a fabric store where they've been making face mask kits. She's brought several home. So it's been sewing to…
  • mark leatherland on Sharp TalkingI'm lucky, i had a good teacher who taught me to sharpen freestyle by hand. It was not all that easy to get the hang of it, but once you've got it, its easy and it saves all that f…
  • Steven Newman/Bandit571 on My 400,000 Subscriber YouTube GiveawayNot really a subscriber, chances are about nil. Just completed a large Tool Cabinet to hold 90% of my hand tools. Getting ready to build a Til for all the hand planes, next....alre…