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Making the Wall Clock #5

With the main body of the clock superstructure completed we can now form the raised panel and fit it to the grooves. This was once performed traditionally using a special plane called a panel-raising plane.

Traditional Panel Raising Plane

View 1 – Showing perspective sketch of plane

DSC_0001 View 2 – Showing underside and skewed cutting ironDSC_0002

 

 

View 3 – Showing profile cut and angle of presentation to wood

DSC_0003

These planes often had two built in fences. Some were shaped within the body of the plane and others had a moveable fence that adjusted the limits of the raised panel according to the size needed. Both types work wonderfully, but fewer and fewer exist and those that can be found are usually quite expensive. Some new modern makers make these planes to order but if someone jigged up to make them at a reasonable price around $350 they would sell and I would most certainly buy one. They are incredibly effective planes and very efficient to use too. Because of the skewed mouth they will tackle just about any grain. I love to use them. Perhaps I will do a blog on making them.

DSC_0834DSC_0836For us, today, the poor man’s panel raising plane will be the ever-faithful #4 Stanley smoothing plane. If you followed the online broadcast making the wall clock you will have seen just how effective they are. I raised two sides to a 3/4” panel in under ten minutes. Now that’s efficiency. No set up time, pristine corners mitered to perfection and requiring only #240-grit sanding to finish.

To begin, I cut my panel to fit between the bottoms of the grooves in both length and width. I first cut to dead size and will latter take of an extra 1/16” to 1/8” in the width and 1/16” in the length.

I use my combination square set to 1 3/4” (could be less or more according to taste) to run pencil lines around both faces of the panel.

I then use my finger as a guide to run parallel lines to the face of the board. I divide the board into three parts with the lines being about 1/4” from each outer face.

DSC_0839I plane to these lines. First I plane to the depth line, and then I plane into the face until I reach the width lines.

 

DSC_0838 DSC_0655 - Version 2Once done, I remove more shavings to fit the bevels until they bottom out to the bottom of the grooves.

Sand the surfaces and dry assemble to make sure everything fits well and that none of the joints are held off by the panel.

  • Christophe FRANCOIS on I Like These Thingsyes, fully agree ! his work is really great and very nice to watch !!
  • Jason on George Leaves…I always look forward to every new project you begin, and am excited by every new YouTube video and Instagram post you make. You bring out a great level of enthusiasm for woodworki…
  • Troy Durant on Overcoming DisabilityHello Paul Sellers. I enjoy all your tutorials. I especially needed this portion of the blog AND ‘Bench heights and planing technique, youtube’. I'm coming from a former combat eng…
  • Kathy S. on George Leaves…What a wonderful friend and probably the best mentor that anyone could ever have or ask for and his legacy shines through you Paul in every thing you do. Your classes and teachings…
  • Michael Michalofsky on George Leaves…Great idea! And a living tribute to George Michael
  • Jhon Z Baker on My GoalsI love that you say 3 #4 planes are enough as I have four currently and am prepping one to sell! So, at least I'm on the right path -- No plug, I don't sell through myself and don'…
  • Christopher Johnston on George Leaves…I apprenticed back in the mid sixties . I think almost every apprentice if they were lucky had a "George" in their life . in my case it was an "Ian" he sounds very similar to your…
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