For clarity, here are a couple of pictures showing the coped cuts of a skirting board (base trim US) using a mitre’s cut to define the shape and the coped cuts from a coping saw used on the push stroke. Hope it helps with clarity.DSC_0037 DSC_0036


  1. KLD on 8 February 2014 at 6:58 pm

    Many thanks Paul – that’s very helpful.

  2. Ed on 13 June 2014 at 5:35 am

    Paul- Someplace in your blog, I think you mention using a certain blade in your coping saws. If memory serves, it may have been a finer tooth than one usually finds, but I cannot find the blog article to learn the characteristics of the blade and where you get it. I’m finding the blades I have on hand, which are from the hardware store, to be rough-cutting and hard to get smooth, controlled cuts while coping base moulding (house trim).

    • Ed on 13 June 2014 at 1:29 pm

      By the way, what I have now are 15 tpi Stanley blades. So, if that is similar to what you use, then it is just a matter of needing more practice. Is the tpi the only factor for a coping saw blade or do they have different widths, like bandsaw blades?

      • Paul Sellers on 13 June 2014 at 11:05 pm

        You are lucky Ed. Sears should carry a fine blade that is about half the thickness of conventional blades. I buy mine when I am over there. They are wonderful blades and seem to last forever.

        • Ed on 14 June 2014 at 12:36 am

          Wow. The Sears web page shows dozens of coping saw blades. I have no idea which might be the one you have in mind. The only Sears brand is one Craftsman which is a package of one each of 10, 15, and 20 tpi. The 20 tpi does look narrower in the photo. Is that the one you mean? (

          I just found some 20 tpi Olson blades at the local Woodcraft store. They are the same thickness as the Stanleys (about 0.5 mm) and about the same width (3mm from back of blade to tip of tooth).

          • Andrew Wilkerson on 21 July 2014 at 4:19 pm

            I’ve been trying to find some decent fine tooth blades for my coping saw and I have almost given up. I can’t order from Sears as I’m pretty sure they don’t ship to Australia. Is there any way I can get some through Amazon or eBay? Any chance you could buy some from Sears and post them on to me Ed? I don’t mind paying more for your time. I think Chris Schwarz recommended Sears as well. I think they come in a pack with mixed tpi, the finest one in the pack is great for clearing the waste between fine dovetails.

  3. Ed on 26 July 2014 at 3:12 pm

    Sears has discontinued this item and won’t ship them to anyone. A few stores nearby list a few remaining in stock for store pickup, but when I called they said they don’t actually see any on hand. It must be an inventory error.

    We’ll need to find a different blade. Although I see other 20 tpi blades, I’ve not seen any that are thin like this one.

    • Andrew Wilkerson on 27 July 2014 at 2:19 am

      That’s so annoying. Everything I try to buy lately has been a dead end and I then have to look for something second best or worse. Why do companies discontinue items that are good quality and popular? Who makes these stupid decisions?

      • Ed on 27 July 2014 at 3:04 am

        I wonder who makes these for Sears?

      • Paul Sellers on 27 July 2014 at 6:01 am

        I just found I am down to my last one.

        • Ed on 27 July 2014 at 1:19 pm

          Paul- Could you please measure and post the width (tip of tooth to back of blade) and thickness of these blades? It may help us to find an alternative. I think the narrow width of this 20 tpi blade is what distinguished it for you?

  4. John Cadd on 15 January 2018 at 2:04 pm

    Maybe there`s no demand for a sunset in plywood on your steam radio . That reminds me of the time I delved into an old valve radio with a long screwdriver. The screwdriver tip was blown off with a loud bang . Safer with woodwork than electrics . For some reason I still remember names like Hilversum .

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